The Best Splitting Axes for Firewood (2025)

This guide is for anyone who is in a position to split some wood, from the full-on homesteader to the urban wood-stove owner. Even if you get your wood delivered, it’s more than likely that some pieces will be too large, or you may just want to split some up for kindling.

We wanted to make a recommendation that works for all skill levels and all kinds of wood, seeking a tool that anyone with a moderate fitness level and no experience in splitting wood could effectively use. Almost any axe can split wood, but some rely on technique more than others.

Like all Wirecutter journalists, I review and test products with complete editorial independence. I’m never made aware of any business implications of my editorial recommendations. Read more about our editorial standards.

A splitting axe is the easiest option for splitting wood. A splitting axe lands right in between the other two common tools used for wood splitting: a splitting maul and a felling axe. Splitters generally range in total weight between 5 and 8 pounds and have a head narrow enough to bite into wood but wide enough that it resists sticking and creates the wedge to break the wood apart.

Splitting mauls have a “wedgier” head that weighs more. Typically, the weight that manufacturers attribute to an axe refers to just the weight of the head, without the handle. Whereas the heaviest splitting axe we tested is a 6-pound model, splitting mauls can get up into the 12-pound range; although that extra weight adds a lot of impact force, there’s a point where the tool gets too cumbersome. Splitting mauls are also very blunt, so in some situations they’re prone to bouncing off the log rather than splitting it. Stuart Hughes explained, “I hear people, they’re like, ‘Oh, you shouldn’t use an axe, you use a 9-pound maul.’ And I’m like, ‘Have you swung a 9-pound maul?’ I’m not a small guy. I’m not a big guy, either. But, man, that wears me out. It really does.”

A felling axe is “stickier” and lighter. The other option is a felling axe, which is designed for cutting across the grain of the wood. These tools are what most people think of when they hear the word “axe.” Felling axes are generally lighter and more nimble, but their narrow head geometry makes them more likely to stick into the log than the chunkier splitting axes. Splitting wood effectively with a felling axe requires a technique-oriented swing (we have details on that below). It’s doable, but for general use a splitting axe is the better option, at least until you find yourself getting absorbed into the axe world and are willing to take on the learning curve of using a lighter, more challenging tool for wood splitting.

Weight matters, but not in the way you might think. The splitting axes I tested ranged from about 4.5 pounds of total weight up to about 8.5 pounds. Splitting wood is tiring work, and you might think that a lighter tool will make for an easier go of it, but I found that the heavier tools were more effective on a wider range of woods. But even heavy splitting axes are lighter than most mauls.

Most axe handles are pretty good, but you’re always at risk of getting a dud. Hughes told me that the most important thing to look for in a handle is for the grain to run from one end of the handle to the other. That isn’t always the case. Buying an axe in person is ideal because you can sift through the selection. If you order online, Hughes noted that most manufacturers offer a 30-day handle warranty. His advice: “I say, go out and use it hard. And if it holds up, you got a good handle. And if it doesn’t, use your warranty.”

We didn’t take sides in the wood-versus-composite handle debate. In choosing which models to test, we didn’t make a distinction between wood and composite handles. It’s a divisive topic for some people, but each style has its advantages. A nice axe head can develop heirloom longevity, so if a wood handle breaks, you can replace it, and the axe will live on. But once the handle breaks on a composite axe, you need to junk the entire tool. On the other hand, a composite handle can withstand the elements in a way a wood handle never could: As an example, I accidentally left a composite splitting axe out all winter, where it spent about five months buried in snow. The next spring I just picked it up and started using it with no problem.

Hughes owns a composite axe and understands their benefits but far prefers using wood-handled tools: “I don’t criticize anybody who uses a fiberglass-handled axe, but I think they do promote a throwaway culture that I try to avoid.” People have been hafting axe heads for thousands of years, he said. “I don’t want to be part of the generation that is responsible for causing that knowledge to be lost.”

Over the course of a summer, I tested the axes at my rural New Hampshire home on a wide variety of wood, ranging from the damp softwood of a freshly fallen fir to the dry hardness of seasoned oak, ash, and maple. I used the axes around the woodshed to make kindling, and I dragged them all out to the far end of my 2-acre field to split up the massive 3-foot-diameter cherry that I had to take down years ago (and has been an eyesore ever since). I also cleaned up the big fir that fell into the field last winter. Through all of this testing, I thunked away at everything from large rounds to little bitty pieces and scraps that came with purchased firewood.

During testing, I kept a close eye on each axe’s performance and comfort. Were they consistent splitters across all types of wood? Were the handles too bulky or too narrow? Did they stick too often? Did I get too much vibration in my arms and shoulders? Because I spread my testing out over many, many splitting sessions, I really got a feel for each one in a range of conditions.

Of all the axes I used, the Stihl Pro Splitting Axe stood well above the rest, combining an unrelenting splitting ability with durability features that should greatly extend the life of the handle. Splitting with the Stihl axe was simply easier and more satisfying than with the others.

It was clearly the most consistent wood splitter we tested. I used the splitting axes on a variety of wood found in the northeast, including oak, maple, ash, fir, and seasoned (and very gnarly) cherry, and the Stihl model was always the most successful axe, regardless of the wood. It broke apart logs that no other axe could. I didn’t test it on every species, obviously, but considering the range and the conditions of what I did split with it, we’re confident in the Stihl axe’s abilities in comparison with the other axes. Since testing, anytime I’ve had to split my own wood, I’ve reached for the Stihl axe, knowing that it has the best chance of getting the job done in the least amount of time.

The wedge-shaped head doesn’t stick as much as the others. Aside from a broken handle, the most annoying thing that can happen while you’re splitting wood is the axe getting stuck in the log. The Stihl axe’s thick, wedge-shaped head made it much more prone to biting into the wood and then quickly separating the wood into two pieces. In contrast, other, narrower axes got buried so deep, they sometimes required me to put in minutes of work to dislodge them. Even when the Stihl axe did get stuck, the geometry of the head made it easier to extract. There is a technique for minimizing this kind of sticking, but we wanted to recommend an axe that anyone of any skill level could simply pick up and start using.

The other benefit to the head is that the heel (the lower corner of the splitting edge) is arced in toward the handle enough to create a strong point that you can hook into a log in order to shift it around. This design aspect isn’t present on all of the axes I looked at, but it is a particularly useful feature that’s found on all of our picks.

It’s got some heft to it. Part of the Stihl Pro Splitting Axe’s splitting ability comes from its weight. With a 5.5-pound head, a metal overstrike collar, and a thick handle, it was the heaviest axe I tested, with a finished weight of a little over 8 pounds. Before testing, I was a little wary about the weight, but I discovered that it translates into less effort, not more. The added weight of the head, combined with its lack of sticking, meant that I could take fewer swings to do the same amount of work in comparison with the other models. It isn’t a light tool, but it is certainly an effective one.

The handle is not too long and not too short. With a 32-inch handle, the Stihl axe sits in the middle of our tested models (and our other two recommendations) in terms of length. This midrange length makes it a good option for people of a wide range of heights and experience levels, as slightly longer splitting axes are easier for beginners; according to Stuart Hughes, this length is perfect for most people. The handle is comfortable—thin at the grip area with a nice palm swell at the end. Up at the base of the head, the handle again swells, giving it additional strength at what is traditionally the weak point of any axe. The handle comes prefinished, which makes life easier for most people, but more experienced axe users with their own handle preferences might find this aspect annoying because sanding down the handle is an additional step for any customization or reshaping.

It can take a real beating. Just below the head of the axe is a chunky overstrike protector, a thick metal collar that wraps around the handle to shield it from an errant swing. This feature not only protects the tool but also adds a little weight to the swing. I didn’t break any handles during testing, but I did put a few solid dings in some others, and it’s nice knowing that the Sthil axe can shrug off this kind of wear and tear.

It’s made by Ochsenkopf. The Stihl axe is a German-made splitting axe, manufactured by Ochsenkopf (which means “ox head”). Ochsenkopf, a prominent name in the axe world, has been making axes since 1781, which apparently has been more than enough time for it to perfect its axes’ design. According to Ochsenkopf, it is the oldest axe forge in Germany. Stihl, meanwhile, is a very respected name in forestry tools, and it’s unlikely to partner with a second-tier company for its axes.

Respected reviewers like it too. Hughes has the Stihl axe and told us that “it’s kind of a bruiser.” We noticed that it’s the axe he’s using in a number of his videos, including one video where he splits an extremely knotty piece of oak and another video where he makes short work of a large chunk of white oak. Axe reviewer and firewood processor Ben Scott has a number of videos that feature the Stihl axe, including his “The Best Wood Splitting Axes and Mauls,” in which he says the axe is “probably my top pick” and that “it’s a good general all-arounder.” Scott notes that “it handles most wood very, very well” and adds that “the collar is very nice too, to help with overstrikes.” In this video, Scott uses the axe to split an especially knotty piece of spruce. Lastly, here is nine zen-like minutes of someone using the axe to split snow gum, an Australian hardwood.

Flaws but not dealbreakers

There’s not much to dislike about the Stihl axe. Longtime axe users who are effective with the flick technique might find the bulk of the Stihl model to be overkill; if you’re in that camp, we recommend the Council Tool 5-Pound SB Splitting Axe. But there is little doubt that the Stihl axe is capable of powering through a lot of wood.

It’s on the high end of the pricing spectrum, but not by a lot. We’ve seen the Stihl axe retail from about $100 up to $140, with the majority of the axes we tested landing between $70 and $110. Considering that this axe is sold under two names, it gives you more pricing options than with other items, so if you’re willing to shop around a little, you should be able to find the axe on the lower end of the scale. And it’s still quite a bit less than high-end Swedish axes, which can cost well over $200.

If the Stihl Pro Splitting Axe is unavailable, we also like the Gedore Ochsenkopf OX 648 H-2508. It’s the exact same tool as the Stihl axe, except it has a yellow head and handle instead of an orange one, and the Stihl logo is missing from the handle. Gedore aquired Ochsenkopf in 2002, and the company currently sells a wide range of logging tools, including felling levers, turning hooks, and wedges. (For more, you can read about Ochsenkopf’s axe-manufacturing process). If you become smitten with Ochsenkopf tools, its 24-piece set (with a stand) provides a high-quality axe for any situation. But as for this specific splitter, everything we said about the Stihl axe applies to the Gedore axe, and we recommend getting whichever one you can find at a lower price.

If you’re looking for a less expensive axe and don’t mind sacrificing some splitting power, we like the Council Tool 5-Pound SB Splitting Axe. Although it isn’t as universally effective as the Stihl Pro Splitting Axe, it does have a long and excellent handle. With the narrower head of this Council Tool axe, it helps to learn the flick technique for the most consistent results. The downsides are that the handle has no overstrike protection and the axe comes with only the lightest coating, so adding finish is an extra step.

It’s a fine splitter, but it’s more prone to sticking than the Stihl axe. I really enjoyed using the Council Tool axe, and it was capable of splitting a lot of what I put in front of it. The head of the Council Tool axe is narrower than that of the Stihl model, however, so it’s more likely to stick, especially when the wood grain starts to get twisty. Although that didn’t happen consistently in my tests, it did happen enough to get a little frustrating. With really dense, gnarly logs, the Council Tool axe could be difficult to remove, too. For this axe, it’s definitely worthwhile to practice the flick technique, which works to minimize such sticking. In fact, as designer Craig Roost states in this video, the head is designed with the flick in mind, as there is considerable weight to the rear of the handle to aid in the flipping of the axe head. Additionally, like our other recommendations, this axe has a slightly hooked heel to help with maneuvering logs around.

The handle is notably comfortable and long. The handle is a high point of the Council Tool axe. It’s fairly thin, long, and very, very comfortable to hold. Stuart Hughes is a big admirer of the handle, telling us, “It’s just comfortable. You just pick it up, and it feels good.” Steven Edholm of SkillCult, talking about Council Tool axes in general, says in a video, “I think their handles are great.” The handle arrives with a minimal coat of wax, but it’s a good idea to add more wax, which, depending on your philosophy, is either a good thing (you can do it yourself) or a bad thing (you have to do it yourself).

The axe is not too heavy and not too light. The 5-pound head, combined with the thin handle and the lack of overstrike collar, makes for a tool with an overall weight of just over 6 pounds. It’s more than 2 pounds lighter than the Stihl axe, so it’s easier to get overhead and maneuver around in general, but it has less of an impact, leading to the likelihood of your taking more swings to get the same amount of work done.

It’s a good option for a beginner. Thanks to this axe’s medium weight and longer, 36-inch handle, it’s a solid choice if you’re just getting into wood splitting, as long as you’re not dealing with too much knotty wood. With a longer axe, it’s easier to end the swing with the handle parallel to the ground, so before you’ve perfected the proper swing, you’re less likely to continue the swing downward into your legs. It’s also easier to be accurate with a straight axe handle. “It is an excellent first axe,” Hughes told us.

It has no overstrike protection. Unlike the Stihl model, the Council Tool axe has no metal collar at the base of the head. Even the most seasoned axe swinger overstrikes from time to time, and this lack of protection, combined with the handle’s thinness, creates a durability issue. During my summer of testing, I had a couple of solid handle hits, and they left significant dents. Clearly, the handle of this axe will need replacement long before the more robust handle of the Stihl axe. As I continue to use this axe, I plan on wrapping the upper part of the handle with cord or a heavy-duty tape for some added padding.

It’s an American-made splitting axe. Council Tool, based in North Carolina, has been making axes since 1886. The company is known for its reliable, yet not bank-breaking, axes. Steven Edholm of SkillCult gives its Boy’s Axe a nice review in this video (and also provides some insight into the modifications that some people apply to their axes). The tool was designed by Craig Roost (“The more you get into axes, the more his name comes up,” Stuart Hughes told us), and in this video Roost discusses some of the design decisions that went into the 5-pound splitting axe.

For a smaller, more portable splitting axe that you can toss in the car for a camping trip but also use as a primary splitting tool, we recommend the Husqvarna S2800 Composite Splitting Axe. Its fiberglass handle is impervious to the elements, and it has a couple of features that set it above other fiberglass models.

It can split a lot of wood. I really enjoyed testing the Husqvarna S2800, and despite its size, it’s an effective splitter, on a par with other, longer tools we looked at. It has a great feel, and the substantial palm swell easily kept it in my hands at all times. The sides of the axe head are slightly concave, however, so it tended to stick in denser woods. It’s good, but it’s no match for the Stihl axe.

It’s short. With a 27.5-inch handle, the Husqvarna S2800 is the shortest axe we looked at, and with a total weight of just over 5 pounds it’s one of the lightest. Its size and weight make it a good grab-and-go tool, but its shorter handle might make it more difficult to use for taller people or beginners, who may benefit from learning with a longer axe such as our top pick from Stihl or the Council Tool axe we recommend.

It has an overstrike protector and a slightly hooked heel. This Husqvarna axe has a couple of features that many other axes lack. Like the Stihl axe, it has an overstrike protector. This one isn’t as robust as that of the Stihl model, but it certainly adds protection to the handle during an errant swing. Also, as with our other picks, the heel of this axe’s head curves into a strong point that you can use to hook a log and shift it around. These two features set it above the other composite axe we tested, the Fiskars X27.

The composite handle is immune to the elements. The Husqvarna axe has a composite handle, which is not affected by the elements in the same way a wood handle is. I once forgot about a composite-handle axe, leaving it to spend an entire New England winter buried under snow, and in the spring it was just fine. Ben Scott, talking about such a handle in this video, says that “it’s very robust, it takes a lot of abuse, and there’s no problem with the handle shrinking and becoming loose.”

If the handle breaks, the axe is done. The downside to the fiberglass handle is that if it does break, you have no way to repair it.

No discussion of splitting axes can take place without our talking about the iconic Fiskars Super Splitting Axe. This axe, available in a variety of sizes, offers effective splitting at a fantastic price, with the 36-inch X27 axe selling for $55 to $75. The Fiskars X27 is a great wood splitter, and I’ve used one for years.

But after testing all of the splitting axes side by side over the course of a summer, we found that we prefer our recommended axes, even at their higher costs, over the Fiskars model. The Stihl and Gedore axes are clearly more effective at splitting, the Council Tool axe is heavier and has a handle we love, and the Husqvarna S2800 has an overstrike protector, a hooked heel, and a larger edge.

Looking through various message boards, I found that the Fiskars–Husqvarna divide is something of a Ford–Chevy, Coke–Pepsi competition. There are vocal proponents of each, and no one is budging. Our experiences put us on the side of the Husqvarna axe. That isn’t to say that we dislike the Fiskars model, only that we prefer the Husqvarna axe. If you’re looking to get a decent wood splitter for relatively little money, the Fiskars X27 is a fantastic option, but just keep in mind that other tools out there offer more features and better splitting ability.

It doesn’t take much time wandering around the wood-splitting world before you start hearing about the flick technique. It’s a way to effectively split wood that relies less on the wedge shape of the axe head and more on the weight of its rear end. If you do it correctly, it allows you to use a thinner axe and makes the head far less likely to get stuck in the log. Also, because the technique involves no follow-through of the axe into the log, it keeps the edge out of the dirt—and any kind of accidental injury to your legs is much less likely.

The technique consists of giving a little twist to the axe handle just a moment before the axe impacts the log. Doing so offsets the weight of the head, so when the axe makes contact with the wood, the head bites in and then flips to its side, prying the wood apart. This short video explains it well, as does this short by Ben Scott.

Before picking up any axe, you should familiarize yourself with axe safety. You can consult plenty of good videos and articles out there, but we found Ben Scott’s how-to video to be the most comprehensive. He gets into handle length, proper stance, and accuracy, in addition to the flick technique (at the nine-minute mark). In my experience, I’ve learned that the two most important things to keep in mind are to keep your feet firmly planted on solid ground and to swing for the base of the log rather than the top of it. When the swing is complete, the axe handle should be parallel to the ground. If you miss while swinging for the top of the wood, there’s a chance that you’ll send the axe right into your shin. It’s also very helpful to use a splitting block to lift the piece you’re splitting off the ground. Protective gear is always good, with gloves and boots being the most important.

A pair of gloves is essential for firewood handling. “I didn't used to be as religious about wearing gloves, but after I don't know how many years of splinters, I finally just said, ‘You know, I’m going to have some gloves around,’” Stuart Hughes told us. Wirecutter has great recommendations for gardening gloves, which should all work for this purpose. Hughes told us he’s a fan of Wells Lamont gloves, and I used a Wells Lamont pair for much of my testing, finding them to be comfortable, durable, and lightweight enough for easy summer use. I’m also a fan of StoneBreaker’s Rancher gloves, which are nicely formfitting and have proven themselves over years of woodpile work.

The Adler Long Splitter Axe, like the Stihl Pro Splitting Axe, is a hefty axe. It splits well and has a solid overstrike protector. The downside is that the handle is large and oval; even when I had gloves on, it felt bulky and awkward.

Council Tool’s FE6-36 Forcible Entry 6-Pound Flathead Fire Axe is designed for firefighters and first responders. In many ways this axe is similar to the Council Tool splitting axe we recommend, but it’s a pound heavier, made of more durable steel, equipped with a curved handle, and often more expensive. This is one of Stuart Hughes’s favorites, and if you’re willing to take on the added weight and investment, it’s a nice option, but we found the Council Tool splitting axe a little easier to use.

The 27-inch Husqvarna German Style Splitting Axe is similar to our top pick from Stihl but doesn’t exceed it in any category. It’s lighter, it lacks an overstrike protector, and it just doesn’t split with the same force.

Husqvarna’s Swedish Style Splitting Axe has a great look, but it was frustrating to use. At under 5 pounds, it was the lightest axe I tested, and it simply didn’t carry the power of the others. It also got stuck a lot.

We did not test the Gransfors Bruk Large Splitting Axe. There is no doubt it’s a beautiful tool from a well-regarded company, but it sells for $225 to almost $300. Axe reviewer Ben Scott has a detailed video comparison of our top pick from Stihl and the Gransfors Bruk Splitting Maul (the larger cousin of the company’s splitting axe) in which he says, “Both are good tools, but I have to say the [Stihl] works better on most woods and is significantly cheaper.”

The Husqvarna A2400 is very similar to the company’s S2800, except that it’s geared more toward general use, with a narrower head and a lighter weight. Reviewer Ben Scott is a big fan of the Husqvarna A2400, and in this video, states that it is “probably the best all-around axe you can buy.” He has used it extensively, and it’s featured in a number of his videos. We did not test the A2400, but considering that the S2800 has a “wedgier” head and additional weight, we’d wager that the S2800 is the better wood splitter of the two.

We did not test the Truper Leveraxe or the EasyGo Chopper, both of which have major design tweaks to the axe head. The Leveraxe is heavily weighted to one side in order to simulate the flick technique minus the flick, and the Chopper has two spring-loaded levers that are supposed to push the wood apart as the axe enters. Neither model has especially good feedback in customer reviews on various retail sites, and the oddly designed heads make these axes difficult for more delicate work, such as making kindling.

This article was edited by Harry Sawyers.